Will I ever find
an izakaya that rates?
I guess not tonight...
I went to an Izakaya down in Santa Clara on Friday night called "Hoshi". I had never tried it, and the Yelp reviews were rave, so I was very excited to try a new place. Overall, the experience wasn't awful, but it was a reminder that some bits and pieces of Japan just don't seem to export very well.
Back in another lifetime, when I was living here and working for these guys, I spent a lot of money eating and drinking out -- most of it in Izakayas of one type or another.
What is an Izakaya? The laziest definition is that it's a bar that serves "Japanese Tapas". That's not completely wrong, but irrititating in that it's using one culture's cuisine to describe another's (i.e. it's about as relevant as calling Tapas, "Spanish Dim Sum"?) But as I mulled the question over my sake sampler, I realized how difficult it is to define. What makes a good Izakaya? Here's a stab:
1. Intimacy
Great Izakayas are intimate. This doesn't mean quiet, but it does mean cozy and warm. One should expect encroachment into their personal area by either another patron, or some attribute of the small space (i.e. you are seated under a stairwell or next to a wooden post holding up the roof).You're going to be drinking, and there's a good chance you're gong to get to know your neighbor - well.
2. Character
If the place is 'traditional', then the place should be awash in brick-a-brack and paper menus adorning the wall. The place should be brimming with chotchkes of randomness, photos of drunken fetes curling from years of age, dusty shelves of bottles kept for regulars, the deprecated pink 10-yen local-only public telephones, and most importantly a resounding IRRASHAI ("welcome") when you walk in the door from everyone working (not just the chefs or waiters). This means they are into what they are doing - they are at the center of having a good time (just like Damone's sage advice in Fast Times: "act like wherever you are, that's the place to be.") On the other hand, if the place is more modern and upscale, it should be mellow and understated. An interior with nice contrasts like cedar and slate or river stones and glass --darkly lit, with judicious and sparing use of halogen for accent. The service should be brisk and non-intrusive, and the waitstaff should be experts in the menu and bar.
3. Music
This is tough. I've been to great Izakayas that play everything from Classical to Heavy Metal. It really depends on the crowd, but great Jazz is always a pillar. If you walk in and hear Miles, Stan, or Yuji Ohno on the stereo (after the deafening Irasshai, of course) you are off to a good start. Incidentally, the same goes for Japanese coffee houses - if you hear jazz walking in, you know that they're using some crazy cold-filtration process that is going to cost you nine-bucks a cup - but it will be totally worth it. But that's another post...).
4. Location
Izakayas should never be on the first floor. You cannot walk directly into a good Izakaya - you must either decend into a bordello of gluttony or ascend into an exclusive aerie. Either can work, but the effect is obviously very different. Basement Izakayas are generally more raucous and because they have no windows it has a Vegas effect on the time-continuum. I missed a few "last trains" thanks to these. High-level Izakayas often afford spectacular views and can be a more rareified, mature experience.
5. Drink
A great collection of sake is a must, but the place must have at least two different beers on tap (and in Japan, if it's an oh-so-rare micro-brewery, big points) and they must serve mixed sho-chu (soju for you Korean fans) drinks with freshly squeezed citrus (called Chu-Hai). If there is Yuzu chu-hai on the menu, prepare for a long and memorable night. (Ok, maybe you won't 'remember' anything, but you understand...)
6. Food
Ok, this is a gimme, but I saved it for last because without it the whole thing falls apart even with the rest of the formula. Ideally, your menu is 50% to 65% staples and the remainder as daily specials or better yet a "special menu". First the staples should be kick-ass and not menu filler. The Kara-age (fried chicken) should be laser-hot and the grease still popping when it hits your table. Same with the agedashi-dofu or calamari or anything else fried. All Kushi-Katsu dishes (things on a stick - e.g. Yakitori) should be served with the right complements. That is, some need salt, others soy-sauce, ponzu, ume, and some need nothing at all. If you get a big bucket of BBQ sauce, you're in trouble. The specials should rotate frequently and there should be lots to choose from. Extra credit for signature dishes that can't be found anywhere else. Oh, I almost forgot. Great Izakayas never serve sushi. The necessary precision and attention to detail just doesn't mix with greasy beer food, and anyone that tries is going to fail. Restaurants in the US try this all the time to cater to American pallates. Sashimi is borderline, but sushi, never. It's like ordering clam chowder at an Indian restaurant.
So how did "Hoshi" rate"? They did pretty well on points #1, #2, and #3, although the place was freezing and we were seated near the door. No place that I've visited in the US has ever passed on #4. The big problem was #6 - the food just didn't cut it. The sashimi was still frozen (see what I mean?) and the tempura had way too much batter. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't great. I'll probably give it another shot in the summer once things warm up, and spend more time with their menu,
Honestly, there is only one Izakaya that I've been consistently pleased with, and that's "Saizo" in Sunnyvale. They nail the food everytime. Now that I've laid-down the ground criteria for the ideal Izakaya, I'll review them in a later post :-)
Hoshi Restaurant
246 Saratoga Ave
Santa Clara, CA 95050
(408) 554-7100